Five tips for chiseling your holiday cold meats

By fashionlifeshopping 24/05/2022 1338 Views

The charcuterie has become in a few years the playground for amateurs, warned, of cooking. The phenomenon started with the pâté in a crust, continued with the making of sausages. The apprentice-chacutiers embarked on the making of Richelieu pâté (with foie gras), Saint-Hubert (game), hure (terrine with pieces of the head of an animal) and even pillow from The beautiful Aurore, an impressive recipe imagined by Brillat-Savarin to pay tribute to her mother, a great cook. It is a very large pâté in a crust whose shape evokes a pillow and containing a stuffing based on several kinds of meats and games: quail, pigeon, duck, foie gras, partitions, pheasant, rabbit de garenne, deer , Ris of veal ... Each year, a few days before Christmas, the Lyonnaise Reynon charcuterie in Lyon perpetuates the tradition of this gargantuan pillow.

→ recipe. With the scallop shell, on the way to the gluttony

the cold meats have become real goldsmiths, by composing terrines, pâtés and structured galantines like marquetry pieces with inlays of decor, Harmonies of contemporary colors and shapes, unusual. The chefs follow their steps and register the map of their restaurants to make the Grande, the Saint-Patron des Charcutiers. And the cold meats are now leaving a good part to vegetables. Like the Poultry Terrine with beets and new onions of the famous Parisian house Vérot.

The secret to succeed terrines and pâtés holds in my sense in five points:

< H3> 1. The right choice:

♦ meats. To obtain a soft terrine, it takes 50 % fat like the pork throat or the fresh chest. For rabbit or veal terrines, it is best to choose brides or fine strips of fresh chest to line the mold.

♦ spices. They must be of good quality, not fanned. Preferably spices in freshly ground grains especially for pepper.

♦ equipment. Choose a metal mold to cook the crust pâtés and a porcelain or earth terrine to cook the terrines.

2. The good weighing:

Five tips for chiseling your holiday cold meats

♦ of the seasoning. In general, it takes 15 g of salt for a kilo of meats, 2 g of pepper, 2 g of optional spices (eighty, nutmeg, cloves or fennel), 15 cl of alcohol for the marinade according to the Tastes.

3. The good time:

♦ marinade for meats. One night at least to marinate the different meats to impregnate them with the scents of alcohol and/or spices.

♦ of rest. The tasting of a terrine is a moment that is planned in advance because it is advisable to let the pâté or the terrine rest two days before serving them.

4. The right gesture:

♦ of hash. Apart from some specific recipes, fat like pork throat or fat must be very finely chopped. It is advisable to pass the meat several times through the fine grid.

♦ of mixing. This is an important step that should not be overlooked. It is essential to mix the farce at length to properly mix the different ingredients between them.

5. Good cooking:

♦ In a double boiler. When it comes to a terrine to prevent it from driving too much when cooked.

♦ in hot oven. At 220 ° C at the beginning so that the crust of the pâté is well golden or that the terrine colors slightly then at 180 ° C to cook the farce of meat.

► in my library

Charcuterie, Certainly the most complete work (480 p.), The most detailed (18 chapters to talk about ballotine, pies, rillettes and pâtés) with step by step photos and the recipes of Sébastien Zozaya, best worker de France installed in the Basque Country (ed. Du Chêne, € 59.90).

In her small Pâté treaty, Marie-France Bertaud is dislocating with historical anecdotes, regional specialties, pâtés Celebration (like the Vendée Easter Pâté or the Yiddish fish pâté, Gefilte Fish) by punctuating her recipes (elderberries, € 14.50).

→ Practical. Lemon caviar, holiday pearls to discover

Véronique Chapacou reveals in the rillettes, ten ways of preparing them (ed. De l'Apor, € 9) original beef recipes, lamb, lamb, lamb, lamb, lamb, lamb, lamb, lamb, lamb Rabbit, or duck, etc.

two other references published last year: Pâté en Coat, very talented duo of Lastre without apostrophe, Marion Sonier and Yohan Lastre (Marabout, € 29) and the big Book of the Charcuterie, of three best workers in France, Arnaud Nicolas, Fabien Pairon and Christian Segui (Alain Ducasse, € 49).

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Recipes

► Hure pistaché

Recipe by Sébastien Zozaya, extracted from cold meats, collection "Lessons en Pas à Pas à Pas à Pas à Pas à Pas à Pas à Pas à Pas à Pas à Pas à Pas à Pas à Pas à Pas à step", ed. of oak.

48 languages of pig6 liters of brine (1) 1 kg of pistachios (600 g for filling and 400 g for decoration) 4 g of pepper4 g of grated nutmeg500 g of wine Dry white

The proportions of this recipe are enormous, play the rule of three to adapt them to the size of your containers and casseroles.

five days before: Place the languages in A large tank and cover them with brine. Film and let rest for five days in the fridge. Then drain the languages.

the same day: split each language in its length. The slit must be deep and regular, without having completely cut the tongue. Garnish each split tongue with a row of pistachios. Then place them in a cast iron casserole dish. Between each layer, pepper and spice with nutmeg. Arrange the tongues well aligned, regularly, to obtain a nice slice at the end. When the casserole is full to the brim, pour the white wine. Then place a last layer of languages, which must exceed the height of the casserole, then cover with cling film.

Place the cover. Wrap the casserole with its lid in several layers of cling film. Cook in the steam at 90 ° C for sixteen hours.

at the exit of the oven, place a weight on the top of the casserole to tamp the high. Place twenty-four hours in the fridge. After rest, remove the cling film. Turn the casserole dish and gently heat the sides with a blowtorch. Gently unmold. Apply crushed pistachios on the whole outside of the Hure.

► My Pâté Trognon

Sonia Ezgulian recipe

4 Apples Bio200 g of broken pastry400 g chopped pork cute100 g chopped pork throat2 pinched muscade powder4 pinched ninety mixture10 cl of calvados20 g of butter1 whole egg + 1 yellow1 tsp. Fine floursel and mill pepper

Peel the apples. Cut the flesh as close as possible to the covers without however reaching the seeds.

cut the flesh of two apples in small dice (reserve the rest for a compote), sauté these diced apples for a minute in a pan With the butter and deglaze with Calvados. When the alcohol is completely evaporated, remove from the fire.

with a fine grid, chop half the cute pork. In a bowl, mix the cute minced pork, the rest of the diced meat and the chopped pork throat. Add the whole egg, flour, diced apples to calvados, spices, salt and pepper. Mix for a long time to properly mix all the ingredients. Preheat the oven to 180 ° C.

on the slightly floured work surface, finely spread the shortcrust pastry. Cut four 15 cm diameter discs. Divide the farce in four parts, place it in the center of the dough discs and slide a core in the center of the farce. Bring the edges of the dough to the center and pinch to keep in shape, letting the end of the cores exceed.

Make decorations with the pasta adornments and brush with beaten egg yolk with A little water.

Bake the cottés courp about ten minutes at 220 ° C then twenty minutes at 180 ° C, serve them lukewarm with a green salad.

how to cook soft pork guides tips