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For this first review as a contributor to Le Devoir, I wanted to keep it simple with a cuisine that appeals to as many people as possible. And with the recent inauguration of a second Neapolitan pizza Nina in the Faubourg Saint-Jean-Baptiste, the opening of Pizzazorg in the Saint-Sauveur district, the arrival of 900 franchises all over the city and I happens, we can say that pizza is doing well in Quebec. And let's go for a first confidence: I love it! It was therefore tempting to go and see how the one in Milano, one of the oldest pizzerias in the capital, is doing.

We meet there, my sister and I, on a Tuesday evening in the middle of the rush hour. The cramped place is crowded. All in good time ! For the record, my parents had their first date at Milano, almost 40 years ago. It was therefore only natural that I invite my youngest to accompany me. After all, we were in the cave where we were born, in a way!

An Italian dinner

As soon as you walk through the door, the welcome is friendly, but rushed. The ambient hubbub gives us the impression of arriving in the middle of dinner at relatives', which sets the tone: here, we don't break our heads, we have a snack. We guess many regulars, especially gray heads and also two or three families who came to feed the kids in the middle of spring break.

The place, renovated a few years ago, is warm. The red leather banquettes and the black and white painted wooden chairs give an atmosphere halfway between a diner and a family restaurant with a little something of an Italian trattoria. And that is exactly what we will also find on the menu.

I said that the place is cramped. It is even more so when we are stuck between two tables, letting us hear too well the murmur of neighboring conversations. We decide to focus on the dishes offered after ordering wine, a pinot noir, which will accompany us throughout the meal. We don't go to Milano for the wine list, let's be frank. There are sure values ​​to accompany almost all the dishes which are very varied. Beers, cocktails and soft drinks also have their place. Diner and family restaurant, remember. We flirt in the comfortable waters of the timeless.

To get started, I'm forcing us to take two Italian-inspired starters that I particularly like: the polpettes and the antipasti platter. The two small veal meatballs are very moist with a tasty marinara sauce and in good quantity, covered with parmesan. On the other hand, a nest of tired arugula, sliced ​​Kalamata olives straight out of the pot and a few raw vegetables come to blur the whole thing. Personally, I would have preferred to have just a generous dumpling topped with sauce with a piece of bread for dipping.

On the antipasti side, it falls flat here too. I had high hopes for the fried artichokes — no doubt a hint of the Jewish-style artichokes I tasted in Rome last year — and my expectations were severely disappointed. The breading, perfectly delicate and crispy, coats artichokes taken from a can. It's bland and tastes like water. I who wanted so much to introduce this Italian specialty to my sister, we'll do it again! The marinated eggplant also leaves us perplexed by its lack of flesh. It's good, but nothing more. The Calabrian sausage and the fleshy olives save the day.

Cheese galore

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